Most watch collectors know of Universal Genève by now – likely the Compax and Polerouter models. Most also know of Gérald Genta and the watches he designed – Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, and the aforementioned Polerouter, among others. But considerably less may know Genta designed another watch during his time at Universal Genève. They are the Shadows.
First introduced in 1965, the White, Golden, and Gilt Shadows were Genta’s second design for Universal Genève after the Polarouter in 1954 (the name was changed to Polerouter in 1958). Shadows first featured the Caliber 1-66 and later 2-66 Microtor movements, which had a thickness of just 2.5mm. These were one of the thinnest automatic watch movements and were the thinnest Microtor movements at the time. However, Piaget held the record for the thinnest automatic movement with its 12P Caliber measuring just 2.3mm thick in 1960. Even today, the thinnest automatic movement today is not that far off, at just 2.23mm (Bulgari BLV138).
Universal Genève filed the patent for an ultra-thin self-winding micro-rotor (aka “Microtor”) watch on May 27, 1955, which was published on June 30, 1958. The first Microtor movement was the Caliber 215 at 4.10mm thick. The Büren Watch Co. filed a very similar patent in within months of Universal Genève’s. The two companies eventually reached an agreement where both could separately employ and profit from the new movement. As a result, only certain companies could use the name “Microtor”.
The Shadow series became Universal Genève’s premier dress watch line and the ultra thin caliber was prominently featured at Baselworld in 1966. Over 250 variations of the Shadow were created, all highlighting its ultra-thin profile. Later Shadows also had unisonic and accutron movements.
The Caliber 1-66 and 2-66 were 28mm wide, ran at 19,800 vph, and had a power reserve of 46 hours. In addition to the movements’ 25 jewels, the bidirectional Microtor mechanism contained four ball bearings. The Caliber 2-66 replaced the classic pin-type method of securing the balance-spring stud with a new cementing system. Calibers 1-67 and 2-67 featured a date complication. The movements were finished with unusual circular Côtes de Genève, also known as Geneva stripes.
Each variation of the Shadow featured a different case material – White in stainless steel, Golden in 18k white or yellow gold, and Gilt in 20 micron gold plating. Although produced in many variations, all Shadows featured ultra thin cases and relatively simple dials. The dials ranged from white, black, champagne, and even blue with Roman or Breguet numerals or straight indices.
The Shadows’ tonneau style cases are likely the most recognizable, but other variations included round, rectangular, and ellipse. Also, Patek Philippe devotees will likely see the similarities between the Shadows and a later Genta design, the Golden Ellipse released in 1968.
As far as watches by Universal Genève go, the Shadows are relatively underappreciated and probably undervalued. These are stunning dress watches with enduring design by the great Gérald Genta. They feature some of the most innovative and cutting-edge movement technology of their time. Considering their history, style, and accolades, its a marvel these watches still remain in the shadows of other, more popular models from Universal Genève.